Skiing St Regis Mountain

  I just returned from a short cross country ski trip on the Raquette Falls trail (see another blog post for details on that trip) with my wife and a couple of friends. We didn't ski all the way into the falls but the conditions were great and the skiing was just the right amount of time for everyone. (Well, admittedly, I would have skied all the way into the falls but, hey, I can be social and make a sacrifice. Sometimes.) So I'm sitting here all warm and toasty by the wood stove, enjoying a nice mug of hot apple cider with rum and cinnamon with everyone and thinking back a couple of days to an absolutely super little ski I did on the St Regis Mt trail. In other words, I'm not being social at all. But no one seems to mind.

Skiing the St Regis trail is not for beginners. I guess I would rate it as an intermediate + trip for whatever that is worth. Don't go if it is at all icy or crusty – it won't be fun. But if there is plenty of light powder you'll have more fun than you'd think is legally possible. That is if you don't mind some climbing (it is St Regis MOUNTAIN after all) and are comfortable skiing narrow trails with twists and turns around the trees part of the time – albeit mostly not at great speed. Every time I've gone the trail has been broken by snowshoers which is really ideal. When you want to slow down it's easy to do a little snow plow and push your ski tails into the deeper snow to the side of the snowshoe track. Or put one ski into the deeper snow.

The really nice thing is that the trail is a great variety of ups and downs of mild and moderate steepness, some pretty straight, some twisty. (OK – there are 2 very steep but extremely short pitches. Only about 20-30 feet long.) About 40 minutes from the beginning you start a long, steady, mostly straight, gentle climb before a short mild drop to a bridge over a small creek, On the return trip this makes for a nice mellow glide. The bridge is a good turn around spot. It takes me a bit over an hour to get there. A couple of days ago, however, I continued past the bridge for about 20 minutes on a continuous moderate climb which became steeper the further I went. I turned around when I thought the descent was going to be as much of a challenge as I was ready for. I've heard of people who ski all the way to the summit. I'm sure it's doable but not for me and still have fun. `

To get to the St Regis trail drive north on route 30 to Paul Smiths College. Just past the college entrance turn left onto Keese Mills Road. About 2 ½ miles in there is a large parking lot on the left with a St Regis Mt sign. Ski about 1/10^th mile down the single lane road that starts next to the parking lot to the actual trail and sign in register on the right.

Have fun! And I'd definitely recommend a hot apple cider and rum when you get back to accompany your equally delicious ski reminiscences.

Walk or Ski off the Conley Road

     Walk or Ski off the Conley Road

Clearly Bob #20

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There is a nice little hour long walk at the western end of Lake Clear that we do quite often.  It is also a good place to cross country ski (or snowshoe).  Because the trail surface is mostly very smooth very little snow is needed to have decent skiing. 

Here's the road map, pretty easy from The Lodge.  And you could ski down the old rail road bed right from The Lake Clear Lodge if you wanted a longer jaunt!

It is almost all flat with just a couple of very small hills.  You get to check out Little Clear Pond down a short side trail.  Little Clear is used by the nearby state fish hatchery and, although you cannot camp on it, provides access to other ponds of the St Regis Canoe Area. 

The route I'll describe is a lollypop.  You start out on the stick, go around the candy counterclockwise, and end up returning to the start on the stick.  Got it?

     It is a few minute drive to the start.  Head south on route 30 from the Lodge and then turn right on Conley Road a bit after you cross over Lake Clear outlet. The trail is located on the left opposite and just barely past the driveway marked with a number “72” sign. Park on the side of the road.   Four large boulders are placed across the trail at the tree line.  There are several trails in this area and no trail markers so I'll demarcate  junctions and and other landmarks as a number of minutes from the start.   When I noted these times we were walking at a moderately brisk pace with no stops.  So adjust your times accordingly.  Of course skiing would be faster.  I apologize for corrupting a pleasant journey through the woods with a stringent time frame but my goal is to help you make the correct turns and avoid the incorrect ones.  You'll also see a bunch of posted signs along the route.  Don't worry – you are on state land so it's not a problem.  In 30 years of walking and skiing this trail numerous times a year we've encountered angry shot gun wielding property owners only a few times. 

     Take the wrapper off the lollypop and start your stop watch.   The trail initially climbs a slight incline before leveling out.  This area seems to be a veritable deer haven.  In the winter, when you can  easily see the tracks, the early part of the trail especially is crossed by numerous deer herd paths.  Someone living near the end of Conley Road used to feed the deer in the winter I was told.  In 8 minutes you'll see a parallel trail on the right.  Stick to the trail you're on even though the 2 trails meet later.  Any of these other trails may not be obvious in the winter if no one has tracked them out.  The trail makes a couple of sweeping right turns in somewhat more cleared areas and then, at 11 minutes, a trail joins from the left.   Continuing straight and just a few seconds walk past this junction there is an obvious 3 way fork with a whole bunch of posted signs visible.  (Scan the woods for angry property owners to the right.)  The fork to the left goes downhill to Little Clear Pond in a couple of minutes – well worth it.  The fork right goes onto the private property.  You want to keep going straight on the center tine of the fork.  At 16 minutes you will be on top of a small hill you go up and over.  You'll no doubt need to take a break at the top – it's a brutal  10' vertical climb.   Don't take the right turn at the bottom of the far side of the hill – that trail goes onto the private property.  1 ½ minutes from the hilltop (that would be 17 ½ minutes from the start as I'm sure you have already figured out)  a trail diverges to the right.  This is where you leave the stick and start on the candy part of the route.   Before you make the turn you'll see a “state land – forest preserve” sign straight ahead on a tree.  After the turn the trail goes slightly down hill, passes a marshy area on the left, climbs a short rise and then comes to a “T” junction at 23 minutes where you turn left.  Just after the left turn there is a large boulder in the middle of the trail.  At 28 minutes there is a small grassy clearing.  An old road continues straight but you are going to turn left.  (The road straight eventually connects to the road into the Girl Scout camp that is located on the opposite side of the lake from the Lodge.)  There is quite of bit of small tree blowdown on this section of the trail which is a very minor hassle on foot; more of  an annoyance  on skis.   You'll see a good size pond through the woods to the right.   There is a trail that leads to it if you're so inclined.   In 33 ½ minutes,  after you loose sight of the pond and go up a gradual incline,  there is a sharp left turn.   There are now some small ups and downs and a possible wet area depending on the recent weather before rejoining the lollypop stick at 38 minutes.   You'll go through the 3 way fork, followed immediately by the trail the diverges right (go straight), followed immediately by a fork where you keep right.  (The left fork is the parallel trail noted  at the 8 minute mark.)  You are back at the car at 55 minutes if you travel at our exact speed on the day I made the effort  to actually time it.  A highly unlikely occurrence.  

Cross Country Ski into Raquette Falls from Lake Clear Lodge

     Cross Country Ski into Raquette Falls from Lake Clear Lodge

Clearly Bob - Post#19

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The ski trip into Raquette Falls is popular and is  my favorite.  It is just a great ski route.  

I would call it mostly intermediate with one more difficult short downhill with curves that, if necessary, you could walk down the side.  (Not down the middle unless you want to be very unpopular with your fellow skiers who remain on their skis.)   It is a 9 mile round trip mostly on a wide trail (it's a horse trail in the summer) with interesting ups and downs that parallels the Raquette River although not often within sight of it.   

The big payoff comes at the end where you get to enjoy your lunch sitting by an impressive waterfall.  Because of its popularity most often you will find a broken trail unless there was very recent snow.

     To reach the start drive south on route 30 from the Lodge to the junction with route 3.  Turn left on 3 and go  2.7 miles to a right turn onto Coreys Road  marked by a large DEC sign saying “High Peaks via Duck Hole”.   A bridge over Stoney Creek is 2.5 miles in.  

There is a parking area just before the bridge but the last few times I've been there you could cross the bridge and continue driving another ¼ mile or so to the summer parking area on right where the sign in registration box is located and the actual trail begins.   I've heard that Coreys Road will not be plowed all the way to the bridge anymore because the large plows were sometimes unable to turn around due to parked cars.  So far this hasn't been an issue I've experienced but it could add maybe a mile each way to the trip.  Maybe someone other than the  highway department plows is clearing the last section. 

     The trail has numerous ups and downs – some minor, some longer and steeper.  There is a trail junction 2.2 miles in (counting the sign in as mile 0) at Palmer Brook.  The trail straight ahead leads to Caulkins Brook and Shattuck Clearing.  Bear right and cross the brook.   

There is one moderate, short downhill that  often, no matter how good the conditions are on the rest of the trail,  has small exposed rocks.   I can't describe where it is – I just recognize it when I see it.  This is not much help but you're forewarned.  

Near the end there a longer climb to a crest at 3.8 miles after which there is a steep downhill with turns where you will need to exhibit your proficiency at controlling your speed.  Then it is a flat run to the end of the canoe carry around the falls where there are several signs and a interior outpost building up and to the left.   

No one is manning the outpost in the winter so forget your thought about sharing a hot chocolate by the wood stove with the friendly ranger.    To get to the actual falls continue straight on the canoe carry trail for about 100 yards and look for a narrow, not too distinct trail to the right that leads  to the falls.  The narrow trail is a bit tricky and the last little bit where it drops down to the river you'll probably have to side slip your way down.  But definitely go to the falls.  

The trees are completely encrusted with frost and ice from the mist rising from the falls.  It's a scene of cold,  raw winter beauty.      

     

Cross Country Skiing near Lake Clear and Paul Smiths, NY

Cross Country Skiing near Lake Clear and Paul Smiths, NY
Clearly Bob, post #16, Follow Bob

Now that we are into November and all the boats are snug in their winter locations gathering dust I tell myself that this is the time to actually get some things done that I have put off all summer because, as we all know, summer, no matter what the calendar says, is the shortest season. 

But while I'm raking leaves, cleaning windows, or winterizing the lawn mower there are definitely enticing thoughts creeping into my consciousness of the coming winter snow and all the fun opportunities that come with it. Don't you love the change of seasons? Why would anyone move to Florida?

       I primarily like to cross country ski in the back country meaning not at a ski area where you have groomed trails and pay for a ticket. This does not require you being an expert skier at all - pick an easy trail and even a beginner can be comfortable. 

Most of the time the more popular ski routes will already have broken trails. If snow shoeing is your thing you can certainly do that on any of the summer hiking trails I've written about or any of the ski routes in upcoming blogs. My own preference is to snow shoe only if it involves climbing a mountain where skiing, at least for my level of ability, is not a good idea if you want your body to stay in one piece. 

       I've cross country skied in the Lake Clear area for 20 years (and elsewhere for more than I'm willing to quantitate) and here are a few observations. 

Just like with paddling, hiking and climbing, there are many, many nearby choices spanning all levels of difficulty. I haven't run out of new places to experience.  

Snow conditions are usually better than you would think. There have been numerous times we've driven up to Lake Clear expecting conditions to be terrible and, while they certainly were not great, the skiing was actually pretty good. 

There can be no snow at all on the ground around Keene and Keene Valley and we're fine. 

This is especially true if you head just north of the Lodge to the Paul Smiths College area, just 6 miles up route 30. 

The Hays Brook truck trail just north of Paul Smiths seems to have its own stealth snow making machines. The other favorable factor is that there are many trails that have a fairly smooth surface. So if there is not much snow depth skiing will still be fine on these trails because there aren't rocks that need coverage. One example of this would be skiing the ponds and canoe carry trails but, if pond ice is of questionable thickness (and this is something that very important to question), there are other choices. 

There is a very good non commercial, unbiased web site for checking cross country trail conditions in the Lake Placid area - both at commercial ski areas and back country: 

http://www.jackrabbittrail.org/conditions.html       The site almost always mentions the Hays Brook and Fish Pond trails - the latter is located in the St Regis canoe area just south on route 30 from The Lake Clear Lodge.

      Now that you are no doubt incredibly psyched to get up to Lake Clear and start skiing check out the upcoming posts where I'll get more specific about routes. 

Get your kids to rake the leaves - yeah, right !

Bob