Friday, January 10, 2014

St Regis Canoe Area Cross Country Skiing

St Regis Canoe Area Skiing

Just down the road from The Lake Clear Lodge

Clearly Bob posts

  When waterways are in their liquid form the St Regis Canoe Area is a paddling mecca. Its numerous small and medium size ponds,  linked by portage trails ranging from a literal stone's throw to over a mile, beckon the intrepid paddler.
But there is a good reason to visit New York's only dedicated wilderness canoe area in the winter also. The cross country skiing here is great.



You can ski loops from a few miles in length to an 11 mile round trip. Some trails are very flat but there are challenging hills to be found if you want. You can ski land only based trails or, more preferably, do a combination of ponds and canoe carries. The carry trails tend to be smooth so they don't need a lot of snow plus this area's snow is very reliable so it is often skiable when others are not.  Snow conditions on the ponds will likely be different than the woods.  Broken paths don't stay broken for long as the tracks fill in quickly with wind blown snow. 
Check out the conditions on Lake Clear before you head out.    If you are going to venture anywhere other than an out and back trip, where you retrace your route, a good map  is a necessity. If you've read my paddling blogs you know that I get a handsome monetary kickback - oops!    I mean I highly recommend the Adirondack Paddlers Map. (Available at EMS in Lake Placid and St Regis Canoe Outfitters in Saranac Lake.)  
Finally, the ski conditions web site I mentioned in the  introductory blog to cross country skiing very often mentions the Fish Pond truck trail which is the main artery of the area.   Here's the link:   http://www.jackrabbittrail.org/conditions.html

     This is the first of 2 posts about skiing in this area.  All of the trips in this post start at the same spot which is on short loop road off route 30 that goes through the state fish hatchery. To get there drive south on 30 from the Lodge about 2 ½ miles and turn right into the fish hatchery. This is the first right turn after Conley Road. About ½ mile along this road is a DEC sign for Fish Pond that marks the start of an unplowed dirt road where you can park. There will often be others parked there as this is a popular area. Ski a couple   hundred yards down the road to the railroad tracks where there are signs related to the campsites on Little Green Pond.   From this point I’ll describe a few options.  Take a look at the map and you can figure out more.

     The simplest choice is to just ski down the road to the left paralleling the railroad tracks.  In 0.7 miles turn right, still on a broad road,  where the road straight seems to end and find the gate and trail register a minute or two after the turn.  This is the beginning of the well-used and therefore most likely broken truck trail that goes all the way to Fish Pond.   But that is 5 miles away.    You can go as far as you want and then turn around and retrace your tracks.  The trail is level for the first mile or so followed by a long climb and long descent. 

     A much more interesting option is to ski a loop.  Here’s the shortest and none of  it is skiing on the ice.  You basically ski a loop around Little Green Pond.  From the railroad tracks goes straight on the road instead of turning left as described above. In 100 yards keep left at the fork.   (The right fork leads to the parking lot and a large beach put in for Little Clear Pond.)   You’ll see turnoffs to the left for campsites on Little Green Pond. Ten minutes from the tracks,  Little Clear will be close on the right and  there is a parking lot on the left next to Little Green.  Continue skiing straight, go  through the  gate,  now on  a trail.  You’ll see Little Green close by again and  climb a gradual rise at the top of which there is a 90 degree left turn. Just after the turn the trail parallels the trunk of a large downed tree.  This part of the trail is not marked on the map.   There is one very short moderate climb, followed by a crossing trail (right to Bone Pond, left to Little Green)  and then the trail is level all the way to its junction with the truck trail where there is a sign high on a tree in front of you indicating Fish Pond is to the right.  Turn left,   in 5-10 minutes go through the gate, and then continue to the railroad tracks  in a  minute where a left turn will bring you back to the beginning of the loop.  This whole loop should take about an hour or less. 

     A longer 6 ½ mile loop gets you out skiing on Little Clear and St Regis Ponds.  An interesting sight often found along the shores of lakes and ponds where softwoods predominate   is a distinct horizontal line below which there is no green and above which the trees appear normal.  The cause of this is deer standing on the ice eating the vegetation.  They can only reach up so far, hence the line.  The route starts  out same as the loop trip around Little Green above  but take the right fork through the parking lot and down to the put in on Little Clear Pond.  Look at your map.  You’re heading for the canoe carry to St Regis Pond at the northwest corner of Little Clear.  Angle slightly left from the put in heading for the 2 islands.  Past the islands ski parallel to the western (or left) shore, go around a large point, and head almost directly west to the far shore.  Look for the white canoe carry to St Regis Pond sign on a tree.  The carry is about ½ mile long.  (About half way along the trail there is another trail to the left which leads,  in about a mile, to the often mentioned truck trail where a left turn will bring you back to a junction with  the Little Green Pond loop described above.  This would make  a shorter loop.)   When you get to St Regis Pond, you first ski out a narrow marshy area.  Then, once out on the open lake, head toward the point far away along the left or south shore. St Regis Pond is particularly beautiful with its islands and bays all dominated by the hulking nearby presence of St Regis Mt.   There is a leanto at the point – an obvious spot to take a break.  I’ve winter camped at this leanto several time once arriving in the dark after a exceedingly difficult slog through the deep heavy pond snow pulling sleds.  Not fun.   After the leanto head down the bay to the far western end of the lake where there is a small dam.  (It's also possible to continue skiing the canoe carry trails to Ochre, Mud and, finally, Fish Ponds but this would make for a very long day trip and the trails have some sections that are much more difficult.)   To the left of the dam find the trail which heads back in 0.2 miles to the truck trail.  Turn left to complete the loop.  (If you want a longer trip turn right to head toward Fish Pond.)    The wide truck trail climbs for about ½ mile and then you get to enjoy a long ¼ mile moderate descent before the trail levels out.  About 2 miles from the point where the spur trail from St Regis Pond joins the truck trail there is a junction with a trail to the left.  This is the other end of the short cut mentioned above that starts on the carry trail between Little Clear and St Regis Ponds.   Continuing straight, in about 1/3 mile there is another trail on the left.   This is the intersection with the loop route around Little Green Pond described in the paragraph above where it meets the truck trail.  There is a sign high on a tree to your right indicating Fish Pond is behind you.  You can either go straight and follow the route as described above or turn left and follow it in the reverse direction.


       I'll describe a few more options in the St Regis Canoe area in the next post.   Take a look at your best friend, the map, and you can probably figure out some routes on your own too.  What a great place!St Regis Canoe Area Skiing

  When waterways are in their liquid form the St Regis Canoe Area is a paddling mecca. Its numerous small and medium size ponds,  linked by portage trails ranging from a literal stone's throw to over a mile, beckon the intrepid paddler.
But there is a good reason to visit New York's only dedicated wilderness canoe area in the winter also. The cross country skiing here is great.
You can ski loops from a few miles in length to an 11 mile round trip. Some trails are very flat but there are challenging hills to be found if you want. You can ski land only based trails or, more preferably, do a combination of ponds and canoe carries. The carry trails tend to be smooth so they don't need a lot of snow plus this area's snow is very reliable so it is often skiable when others are not.  Snow conditions on the ponds will likely be different than the woods.  Broken paths don't stay broken for long as the tracks fill in quickly with wind blown snow. 
Check out the conditions on Lake Clear before you head out.    If you are going to venture anywhere other than an out and back trip, where you retrace your route, a good map  is a necessity. If you've read my paddling blogs you know that I get a handsome monetary kickback - oops!    I mean I highly recommend the Adirondack Paddlers Map. (Available at EMS in Lake Placid and St Regis Canoe Outfitters in Saranac Lake.)  
Finally, the ski conditions web site I mentioned in the  introductory blog to cross country skiing very often mentions the Fish Pond truck trail which is the main artery of the area.   Here's the link:   http://www.jackrabbittrail.org/conditions.html

     This is the first of 2 posts about skiing in this area.  All of the trips in this post start at the same spot which is on short loop road off route 30 that goes through the state fish hatchery. To get there drive south on 30 from the Lodge about 2 ½ miles and turn right into the fish hatchery. This is the first right turn after Conley Road. About ½ mile along this road is a DEC sign for Fish Pond that marks the start of an unplowed dirt road where you can park. There will often be others parked there as this is a popular area. Ski a couple   hundred yards down the road to the railroad tracks where there are signs related to the campsites on Little Green Pond.   From this point I’ll describe a few options.  Take a look at the map and you can figure out more.

     The simplest choice is to just ski down the road to the left paralleling the railroad tracks.  In 0.7 miles turn right, still on a broad road,  where the road straight seems to end and find the gate and trail register a minute or two after the turn.  This is the beginning of the well-used and therefore most likely broken truck trail that goes all the way to Fish Pond.   But that is 5 miles away.    You can go as far as you want and then turn around and retrace your tracks.  The trail is level for the first mile or so followed by a long climb and long descent. 

     A much more interesting option is to ski a loop.  Here’s the shortest and none of  it is skiing on the ice.  You basically ski a loop around Little Green Pond.  From the railroad tracks goes straight on the road instead of turning left as described above. In 100 yards keep left at the fork.   (The right fork leads to the parking lot and a large beach put in for Little Clear Pond.)   You’ll see turnoffs to the left for campsites on Little Green Pond. Ten minutes from the tracks,  Little Clear will be close on the right and  there is a parking lot on the left next to Little Green.  Continue skiing straight, go  through the  gate,  now on  a trail.  You’ll see Little Green close by again and  climb a gradual rise at the top of which there is a 90 degree left turn. Just after the turn the trail parallels the trunk of a large downed tree.  This part of the trail is not marked on the map.   There is one very short moderate climb, followed by a crossing trail (right to Bone Pond, left to Little Green)  and then the trail is level all the way to its junction with the truck trail where there is a sign high on a tree in front of you indicating Fish Pond is to the right.  Turn left,   in 5-10 minutes go through the gate, and then continue to the railroad tracks  in a  minute where a left turn will bring you back to the beginning of the loop.  This whole loop should take about an hour or less. 

     A longer 6 ½ mile loop gets you out skiing on Little Clear and St Regis Ponds.  An interesting sight often found along the shores of lakes and ponds where softwoods predominate   is a distinct horizontal line below which there is no green and above which the trees appear normal.  The cause of this is deer standing on the ice eating the vegetation.  They can only reach up so far, hence the line.  The route starts  out same as the loop trip around Little Green above  but take the right fork through the parking lot and down to the put in on Little Clear Pond.  Look at your map.  You’re heading for the canoe carry to St Regis Pond at the northwest corner of Little Clear.  Angle slightly left from the put in heading for the 2 islands.  Past the islands ski parallel to the western (or left) shore, go around a large point, and head almost directly west to the far shore.  Look for the white canoe carry to St Regis Pond sign on a tree.  The carry is about ½ mile long.  (About half way along the trail there is another trail to the left which leads,  in about a mile, to the often mentioned truck trail where a left turn will bring you back to a junction with  the Little Green Pond loop described above.  This would make  a shorter loop.)   When you get to St Regis Pond, you first ski out a narrow marshy area.  Then, once out on the open lake, head toward the point far away along the left or south shore. St Regis Pond is particularly beautiful with its islands and bays all dominated by the hulking nearby presence of St Regis Mt.   There is a leanto at the point – an obvious spot to take a break.  I’ve winter camped at this leanto several time once arriving in the dark after a exceedingly difficult slog through the deep heavy pond snow pulling sleds.  Not fun.   After the leanto head down the bay to the far western end of the lake where there is a small dam.  (It's also possible to continue skiing the canoe carry trails to Ochre, Mud and, finally, Fish Ponds but this would make for a very long day trip and the trails have some sections that are much more difficult.)   To the left of the dam find the trail which heads back in 0.2 miles to the truck trail.  Turn left to complete the loop.  (If you want a longer trip turn right to head toward Fish Pond.)    The wide truck trail climbs for about ½ mile and then you get to enjoy a long ¼ mile moderate descent before the trail levels out.  About 2 miles from the point where the spur trail from St Regis Pond joins the truck trail there is a junction with a trail to the left.  This is the other end of the short cut mentioned above that starts on the carry trail between Little Clear and St Regis Ponds.   Continuing straight, in about 1/3 mile there is another trail on the left.   This is the intersection with the loop route around Little Green Pond described in the paragraph above where it meets the truck trail.  There is a sign high on a tree to your right indicating Fish Pond is behind you.  You can either go straight and follow the route as described above or turn left and follow it in the reverse direction.

       I'll describe a few more options in the St Regis Canoe area in the next post.   Take a look at your best friend, the map, and you can probably figure out some routes on your own too.  What a great place!

Ski the Paul Smiths VIC, a favorite spot of The Lake Clear Lodge residents and guests


Ski the Pauls Smiths VIC, not far from The Lake Clear Lodge

Map : Paul Smiths VIC

VIC website for trails and weekly activities

[Note:  We seem to be in a snow pocket out here in the Lake Clear/Pual Smiths area!  If other areas are letting you down with the snow - call for conditions "out here!"]

Clearly Bob - #21  Follow Bob and our Blog

Ski the “VIC”, not far from The Lake Clear Lodge

      Generally I am adverse to skiing at commercial areas when there are so many excellent back country options available.   There is one exception to this that I would highly recommend – the Visitor Interpretive Center run by Paul Smiths College.  It is not really a commercial business in the typical sense but you do have to pay $10 to ski (or snowshoe if that is your preference) there.  I'm sure they are not really making any profit with this fee and it goes toward maintaining the trails and facilities.  The college is providing a great resource to the public year round and everything else is free so I'd feel good about what is a fairly nominal charge to ski.  It's a good thing to support.  




     There are lots of trails at the VIC.  The trail surfaces are wide and smooth (actually baby stroller friendly smooth) so not much snow is needed.    I believe that some or  most of the trails are track set but, if that is important to you, ask about it in the large main building.  Pick up a trail map in the building too.  Some trails have ups and downs to add to the interest but there is nothing especially difficult.  Some of the trails extend far away from the start and connect with routes that can be accessed from other starting points.   Although the signage is improving, it seems like the further out you get the worse it is so pay attention to your map and the time.  Once, before the fee was instituted and the trails were less well marked, I was skiing at the VIC by myself one afternoon and past a couple of guys skiing the opposite direction near the beginning.  After exchanging a few comments about how good the skiing was I continued on,  following their tracks.  I kept this up as their route brought me into areas seemingly far away from the parking lot and very unfamiliar to me.  Still I figured they had skied a loop and I would eventually end up back at the beginning.  But I was getting less and less comfortable and it was late afternoon by then so I just turned around and retraced my (and their) tracks.  I didn't want to run out of daylight.  And maybe they used 2 cars and skied an “A” to “B” route and not a loop.  That could have been a big problem for me.  The point is, you can ski for a long, long time if you want.


     The VIC is about 10 minutes north on route 30 from the Lodge and  a mile or so beyond the college entrance.  

Walk or Ski off the Conley Road

     Walk or Ski off the Conley Road

Clearly Bob #20

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There is a nice little hour long walk at the western end of Lake Clear that we do quite often.  It is also a good place to cross country ski (or snowshoe).  Because the trail surface is mostly very smooth very little snow is needed to have decent skiing. 

Here's the road map, pretty easy from The Lodge.  And you could ski down the old rail road bed right from The Lake Clear Lodge if you wanted a longer jaunt!

It is almost all flat with just a couple of very small hills.  You get to check out Little Clear Pond down a short side trail.  Little Clear is used by the nearby state fish hatchery and, although you cannot camp on it, provides access to other ponds of the St Regis Canoe Area. 

The route I'll describe is a lollypop.  You start out on the stick, go around the candy counterclockwise, and end up returning to the start on the stick.  Got it?

     It is a few minute drive to the start.  Head south on route 30 from the Lodge and then turn right on Conley Road a bit after you cross over Lake Clear outlet. The trail is located on the left opposite and just barely past the driveway marked with a number “72” sign. Park on the side of the road.   Four large boulders are placed across the trail at the tree line.  There are several trails in this area and no trail markers so I'll demarcate  junctions and and other landmarks as a number of minutes from the start.   When I noted these times we were walking at a moderately brisk pace with no stops.  So adjust your times accordingly.  Of course skiing would be faster.  I apologize for corrupting a pleasant journey through the woods with a stringent time frame but my goal is to help you make the correct turns and avoid the incorrect ones.  You'll also see a bunch of posted signs along the route.  Don't worry – you are on state land so it's not a problem.  In 30 years of walking and skiing this trail numerous times a year we've encountered angry shot gun wielding property owners only a few times. 


     Take the wrapper off the lollypop and start your stop watch.   The trail initially climbs a slight incline before leveling out.  This area seems to be a veritable deer haven.  In the winter, when you can  easily see the tracks, the early part of the trail especially is crossed by numerous deer herd paths.  Someone living near the end of Conley Road used to feed the deer in the winter I was told.  In 8 minutes you'll see a parallel trail on the right.  Stick to the trail you're on even though the 2 trails meet later.  Any of these other trails may not be obvious in the winter if no one has tracked them out.  The trail makes a couple of sweeping right turns in somewhat more cleared areas and then, at 11 minutes, a trail joins from the left.   Continuing straight and just a few seconds walk past this junction there is an obvious 3 way fork with a whole bunch of posted signs visible.  (Scan the woods for angry property owners to the right.)  The fork to the left goes downhill to Little Clear Pond in a couple of minutes – well worth it.  The fork right goes onto the private property.  You want to keep going straight on the center tine of the fork.  At 16 minutes you will be on top of a small hill you go up and over.  You'll no doubt need to take a break at the top – it's a brutal  10' vertical climb.   Don't take the right turn at the bottom of the far side of the hill – that trail goes onto the private property.  1 ½ minutes from the hilltop (that would be 17 ½ minutes from the start as I'm sure you have already figured out)  a trail diverges to the right.  This is where you leave the stick and start on the candy part of the route.   Before you make the turn you'll see a “state land – forest preserve” sign straight ahead on a tree.  After the turn the trail goes slightly down hill, passes a marshy area on the left, climbs a short rise and then comes to a “T” junction at 23 minutes where you turn left.  Just after the left turn there is a large boulder in the middle of the trail.  At 28 minutes there is a small grassy clearing.  An old road continues straight but you are going to turn left.  (The road straight eventually connects to the road into the Girl Scout camp that is located on the opposite side of the lake from the Lodge.)  There is quite of bit of small tree blowdown on this section of the trail which is a very minor hassle on foot; more of  an annoyance  on skis.   You'll see a good size pond through the woods to the right.   There is a trail that leads to it if you're so inclined.   In 33 ½ minutes,  after you loose sight of the pond and go up a gradual incline,  there is a sharp left turn.   There are now some small ups and downs and a possible wet area depending on the recent weather before rejoining the lollypop stick at 38 minutes.   You'll go through the 3 way fork, followed immediately by the trail the diverges right (go straight), followed immediately by a fork where you keep right.  (The left fork is the parallel trail noted  at the 8 minute mark.)  You are back at the car at 55 minutes if you travel at our exact speed on the day I made the effort  to actually time it.  A highly unlikely occurrence.  

Cross Country Ski into Raquette Falls from Lake Clear Lodge

     Cross Country Ski into Raquette Falls from Lake Clear Lodge

Clearly Bob - Post#19
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The ski trip into Raquette Falls is popular and is  my favorite.  It is just a great ski route.  






I would call it mostly intermediate with one more difficult short downhill with curves that, if necessary, you could walk down the side.  (Not down the middle unless you want to be very unpopular with your fellow skiers who remain on their skis.)   It is a 9 mile round trip mostly on a wide trail (it's a horse trail in the summer) with interesting ups and downs that parallels the Raquette River although not often within sight of it.   

The big payoff comes at the end where you get to enjoy your lunch sitting by an impressive waterfall.  Because of its popularity most often you will find a broken trail unless there was very recent snow.

     To reach the start drive south on route 30 from the Lodge to the junction with route 3.  Turn left on 3 and go  2.7 miles to a right turn onto Coreys Road  marked by a large DEC sign saying “High Peaks via Duck Hole”.   A bridge over Stoney Creek is 2.5 miles in.  

There is a parking area just before the bridge but the last few times I've been there you could cross the bridge and continue driving another ¼ mile or so to the summer parking area on right where the sign in registration box is located and the actual trail begins.   I've heard that Coreys Road will not be plowed all the way to the bridge anymore because the large plows were sometimes unable to turn around due to parked cars.  So far this hasn't been an issue I've experienced but it could add maybe a mile each way to the trip.  Maybe someone other than the  highway department plows is clearing the last section. 

     The trail has numerous ups and downs – some minor, some longer and steeper.  There is a trail junction 2.2 miles in (counting the sign in as mile 0) at Palmer Brook.  The trail straight ahead leads to Caulkins Brook and Shattuck Clearing.  Bear right and cross the brook.   

There is one moderate, short downhill that  often, no matter how good the conditions are on the rest of the trail,  has small exposed rocks.   I can't describe where it is – I just recognize it when I see it.  This is not much help but you're forewarned.  

Near the end there a longer climb to a crest at 3.8 miles after which there is a steep downhill with turns where you will need to exhibit your proficiency at controlling your speed.  Then it is a flat run to the end of the canoe carry around the falls where there are several signs and a interior outpost building up and to the left.   

No one is manning the outpost in the winter so forget your thought about sharing a hot chocolate by the wood stove with the friendly ranger.    To get to the actual falls continue straight on the canoe carry trail for about 100 yards and look for a narrow, not too distinct trail to the right that leads  to the falls.  The narrow trail is a bit tricky and the last little bit where it drops down to the river you'll probably have to side slip your way down.  But definitely go to the falls.  

The trees are completely encrusted with frost and ice from the mist rising from the falls.  It's a scene of cold,  raw winter beauty.